LOT 177 An emerald and diamond 'Two Bees' ring, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, circa 1965
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An emerald and diamond 'Two Bees' ring, by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, circa 1965
The step-cut emerald, weighing 22.02 carats, within an elaborate mount formed of two marquise and brilliant-cut diamond honey bees and two curving brilliant-cut diamond leaves, with polished wirework decoration, signed Schlumberger and Tiffany & Co, ring size L
|Accompanied by a report from GCS stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with minor oil in fissures. Report number 79202-53, dated 21 February 2019.ProvenanceFormerly in The Andy Warhol Collection. Sold at Sotheby's New York on 4th December 1988, lot 112. Accompanied by a copy of the catalogue cover and page.Andy Warhol (1928-1987) was an avid, yet clandestine, collector of jewellery. In the late 1970s he created a series of screen prints called Gems by Andy Warhol featuring various precious stones. One of the prints featured a step-cut emerald. He is said to have adored gemstones but was rarely seen wearing jewels, so the extent of his enthusiasm was only truly known after his death when, to the surprise of his manager, Frederick W. Hughes and two curators, they discovered a hidden treasure of precious gems and jewels in the storage room of his townhouse. This revealed a vast collection of sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, watches and Art Deco and contemporary jewellery signed by the most distinguished houses including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany. The present lot, an emerald and diamond 'Two Bees' ring by Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987), was found among this collection. Schlumberger, French artist-jeweller par excellence who designed for Schiaparelli in the 1930s and Tiffany & Co from 1956 to the late 1970s, was considered a true artist. Like Warhol, he shared a fascination for design, colour, shape and texture. Through exceptional draughtsmanship and remarkable imagination, Schlumberger translated the inspiration he drew from the flora and fauna of the natural world into the vibrant and whimsical jewels that are his trademark. His choice of materials and textures creates a beautiful balance in even his most unconventional designs.
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